Just got back from a trip to Stockholm, Oslo and the fjords. It's true about the best restaurants being closed in Stockholm during July! One warning: avoid a restaurant called Jarntorgspumpen in Gamla Stan (old town). You have to walk through a cloud of cigarette smoke to get to the grotto like dining room and the food was not good. One pleasant surprise in Gamla Stan was Michaelangelo's - it isn't gourmet but the food was good and their red sauce has sambal in it (I now am adding it to my sauces at home!). Richi Verandan on Birger Jarlsgaten, near the Theater Bldg. in Stockholm serves good food and it's fun to watch the world go by (when weather is warmer they open the floor to ceiling windows). A neat boat trip is the one to Vaxholm...the boats are bigger and have restaurants in them (much nicer than the lowslung ones that do the "under the bridges" tour through the city) and you get a pleasant trip through the archipelago. You can get off at Vaxholm and do the tourist thing or stay on the boat. In Oslo we had a great meal at Stortorvets Gjestgiveri on Grensen (divine chicken schnitzel with fresh steamed asparagus and grilled halibut sitting on caramelized onions all in the fabulous sauted mushroom sauce...lemon torte with fresh strawberries and a side dish of honey sorbet for dessert). Also Maud's down at the harbor is good (veal and chicken dishes...also tried an appetizer of red deer which was just ok...guess we're not red deer meat fans).