Restaurants & Bars

Los Angeles Area

Square One AGAIN: Better and Better!


Restaurants & Bars 2

Square One AGAIN: Better and Better!

Will Owen | Nov 21, 2008 05:54 PM

Golly, I hate to keep coming back to the same place, but these guys keep outdoing themselves. Last post about this place was only a couple of months ago, following a revelatory lunch/breakfast dish of grits, greens, cheese and egg, the sort of thing I'd cook for myself from leftovers and never think to serve to guests, but there it was. And it was awful damn good.

So there I was today, having swum through LA traffic all morning shooting apartment buildings and needing some fine grub. This time I went for the top $ of the breakfast-foods menu, the Benedict variant with their own cured salmon on shredded-potato cakes. Asked for grits, was really annoyed when developed that they were all gone, but glad that (a) a restaurant actually ran out of grits in LA, who knew?, and (b) they couldn't just make more because theirs take a really long time; most restaurants in Nashville can have a new batch ready in under ten minutes. More potatoes did not sound like a good idea, so I picked the salad option. And you know what? I was GLAD they were out of grits! That salad with that dish made one of the loveliest meals I have ever eaten, from first bite to last. The eggs were only just coagulated but quite hot, the salmon cool and silky and richly salmony; the potatoes are the latkes they'll serve in Heaven, so be good!; the hollandaise was perfect, in that it bound the dish together without intruding on it in any way. As for the salad, it seemed to be mostly baby romaine and arugula, dampened lightly with a dressing I'd have thought too sweet on its own, but it worked just right here. I kept trying new combinations with every bite - egg and greens, egg and salmon and potato, greens and salmon, potato, egg yolk and greens - and they were all delightful.

This is not dirt cheap food; with a glass of (again!) perfect lemonade, the meal was $18+ with tax but before tip. I paid it happily, and look forward to my next good excuse to come here.

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