We tried Sovana Bistro in Kennett Square last Friday. Sure enough the food and the restaurant bear little resemblance to when we dined there last a few years ago. The place has expanded sideways but the main dining room is still very cramped but with white tablecloths and candles on the wall the decor has improved. Now here's the big change...the food! Sure enough Bryan Sikora has infused magic into the cuisine, especially the fish. For starters we had delicious mussels served over greens in a spicy sauce and had crispy calamari over baby arugula, both were very good. My son had a decent hangar steak that was cooked to perfection but the highlight of the meal had to be the whole fresh grilled fish (bronzino that night) as well as the fish special, which was striped bass I seem to recall. Both were fabulous, and I am sure that there was a Django influence in these. The desserts were just fair, thogh, but included a just-average molten cake and an above average pear tart-like thing. Well worth the drive, especially if you live in that area!