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Sope-lirious still

Vital Information | Jun 1, 200308:59 AM

The one person that I knew would follow up on my sope guy, Gwiv, the Ultimo, did in fact try to find him last week. But he prowled the stretch of Milwaukee south of Fullerton and came up deliciousness-less. It was something I worried about when I made the original post.

I went yesterday, to the sacred corner of St. George and Milwaukee (how fitting, I know), and sure enough, a food stand was there. I cannot yet say if this is a weekend only thing or that since Gary tried on a day of poor weather, that was a problem. Each visit, I try to extract a bit more information, but I am so delierious with joy with my sope, I can only do so much. What I did get this visit is that the sope people come from Guerrero.

Yesterday, I was not sure if it was the man who looked like an older Carlos Santana. He had perhaps recently shorn his curls, and besides, was wearing a hat. Still, the set-up was the same, including the large vats of aqua fresca and the prominent green salsa that I knew it was my guy. For the sake of you readers, I ordered a taco as well as a sope, just to try more. The tacos are the crunchy rolled kind, flautas also, filled with chorizo. They get the squeeze bottle drizzle, sour cream, and given that he said he was from Guerrero, maybe this is Gene Bahena making a couple of bucks to support his ever growing need to expand. The sope yesterday was potato. No seeds on top, but again on the side. He did spray a handfull of Mexican grated cheese over the whole thing, and he may have even said bam.

I liked the taco, but cold fried things are only so good. The sope remained sope heaven. If anything it was even better. The masa was more distictively sope shaped, like a coaster or a 60's era ashtray, meaning there was more distict elements of thick and thin. The botton was charred from a griddle in the way I expect New Haven pizza to be. On Friday, one of the chowhounditas and I split the filete con papas at Quebrada. I am not a big fan of the potatoes at Quebrada. There is always something hard and cutting to their taste. Not here, the potatoes were a soft medley of flavors, the best hash browns. The very hot green sauce complemented perfectly, and the pumpkin seeds gave the usual texture.

As I sat around eating my stuff, I saw he also sells tamales and atole. I tried a cup of the latter, but it did not move me. More like drinking a can of corn.

One other note/correction. I reported the grocery store which is just to the north of the sainted sope man as San Luis, it is San Lucas.


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