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Markets & Stores 7

Silver Lake's Town & Country Bakery -- two weeks later

SoCal | Jul 4, 200503:10 AM

When I first tried Town & Country Bakery in Silver Lake (6/12) it was only a few days old. Although my breakfast choices were pretty tasty the place was brand new and in disarray.

A couple of weeks later now, Town & Country seems to be finding its legs. The problematic refrigerated case has not yet been replaced. Seating is limited because the tables and chairs for the back room have yet to arrive.

I went for a late lunch today and ordered a chicken breast sandwich with a side salad.

The sourdough bread was so fresh and crusty, the chicken breast was very juicy, thick and tender, the goat cheese was perfectly applied (not too much), and the arugala was super peppery and fresh. Each component seemed as high quality as it could be.

The waitron suggested that I buy a brownie to-go and I complied. The brownie was big (three large Post-It notes big), and still very cold from the deli case, even a good 30 minutes later. During its cold spell the brownie absorbed flavors from other dishes (roasted veggies, I think). In fact my first impression was that I was eating chocolate salsa. As it warmed up (a few hours later) it got better -- rich cocoa and bittersweet chips -- but it was dry. Perhaps the problem is attributable to some of the deli case drama going on.

Otherwise, my sandwich was so terrific that I can see myself becoming a frequent visitor. There were some beautiful prepared salads in the case in addition to a couple lemon roasted chickens that I'd pick up after work in a heartbeat.

I think this place is on the road to being Silver Lake's smaller answer to Clementine, with unique Eastside twists, of course (like plastic retro tablecloths and it's hard to imagine the Town & Country staff wearing matching logoized uniforms.)

Strangely enough, the variety and rotation of prepared foods bring to mind the Silver Palate, but prices at Town & Country are reasonable and the selections are a little more folksy.

The staff -- both the servers and the kitchen crew -- seemed really nice and attentive both times I visited.

They were playing the Rolling Stones again and the place has a big cookie jar filled with homemade dog biscuits -- gratis for your beast of burden.

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