A solid week of rain in Taormina at the end of Sept (I know, our own stupid fault for going at that time) was saved by a great place called RISORANTE A ZAMMARA in the winding backstreets. Big hit was polpette alla limone (?) - meatballs grilled on lemon leaves, mmmm...
They have a lovely garden area too, although it's not quite at its best in a thunderstorm. Anyway, give it a spin if you're there - details here: www.zammara.it (although it's all in Italian at the moment - nice chance to practice your languages too).
Hope this is of some use to anyone going Sicilywards.
NB Before we went to Sicily we kept telling each other "don't mention the Mafia", Basil Fawlty style, but when we got there EVERY restaurant was playing the Godfather theme and people even had it as their mobile phone ringtones. Mamma mia.