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Restaurants & Bars 8

Sichuan Sadness

La Bouche | Mar 25, 2001 11:16 AM

My husband and I went to the Lion Pavillion last Friday with great excitement. (We're huge, longtime fans of Grand Sichuan at 9th Ave. and 24th St.) But we were mostly disappointed...dun-dun noodles okay, not quite the zing I love; the shredded chicken was good for a few bites, but had too many pieces that were just cold (can I say rubbery?) chicken skin; the tea-duck was fine but lacked the subtle flavoring of Grand Sichuan's as well as the delicious dipping sauce; and the bok-choy and shitakes were just all right.
Our biggest success was a braised striped sea bass with miso sichuan sauce, but even this entrée is not one I would make a special trip to Kew Gardens for. Is it possible they've lost their good chef altogether? We were charmed by everyone who worked there and by the centerpiece aquarium chocked full of healthy koi, but our view directly onto the overlit mini-mall hallway plus not so stellar eating would keep us from going back...at least until we heard further news.

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