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SHO Shaun Hergatt getting better


Restaurants & Bars 34

SHO Shaun Hergatt getting better

fooder | Dec 25, 2009 10:12 AM

As always, full review with photos at the blog: http://ramblingsandgamblings.blogspot...

I went there not long after it opened, and had the tasting menu. I thought it was good, but there was still work to be done. Fast foward to last week, where I went there with a friend to celebrate a birthday.

Quick highlights from the prix fixe:

The hors d'oeuvres were lovely and quite sizeable.

The red chili and coconut milk glazed quail was amazing. It was decadently stuffed with foie gras, but the glaze, which reminded me of Malaysian curry, was the highlight and brought the dish to another level. This is the only dish that has never left the menu since they opened because everyone loves it.

Sweetbreads poele with truffle risotto and aged balsamic was very tasty. Nice big piece of sweetbread with a texture that I loved, soft, but not too melty. Good strong flavors rounded out by the balsamic.

Milk-fed veal tenderloin was well cooked and the double cream emulsion jus had great flavor. The square of layered, thinly sliced veal tongue was amusing. I loved the vegetables that came with this, the variety, the texture, the tastes. I thought it was a terrifically composed dish.

The mediums:

Ordered the egg dish a la carte. The poached egg came with uni, uni foam, and caviar. The caviar wasn't strong enough to stand out among the egg yolk and uni flavors. The egg was delicious, but I don't know that I would spend $40 on this egg dish again.

The salmon had good flavor and it was a big piece, but I thought the thai basil froth was too strong and I was surprised a restaurant of this caliber did not use wild salmon.

The desserts were good, though I've never been big on desserts.

Overall, the food has gotten better, and the service is coming together.

With this new confidence, the kitchen now has a 15 course tasting menu ($220ish) that wasn't available my first visit.

Anyone tried it? Anyone want to go try it? I'm thinking of maybe giving it a go in February, when chef Hergatt said halibut will be back in season for his halibut with truffled celery root puree.

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