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Dbird | Nov 12, 2004 12:28 AM

Tonight I had shirako for the third time. First was as sashimi at Sushi Gen, maybe three or four years ago, and I was slightly repelled but sufficiently buoyed by the respect I gained among the staff to welcome the subsequent opportunity to down a shooter at Chicago's Heat in 2002 and just now tried to prove my point with Senzaburo-san at the New Otani with shirako tempura which in fact should be any novice's introduction. He was generous, and I ate the first oozing bite with a squeeze of lemon; the second after a long soak in soy sauce and with a big scoop of radish. The third I dropped into the plastic wrapper from my hot towel when he turned his back and the fourth straight down my throat with a gulp of sake.

'Disgusting' is plainly idiosyncratic; but after three old school tries might I retain a shred of credibility should I decline a fourth?

Will post again about Senzaburo & New Otani tempura bar which are fantastic, despite and of course even, perversely, because of shirako incident with which perforce I earned credentials to merit all manner of roe and other interesting and more welcome matter.

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