I returned to Sfoglia for the 1st time in close to 2 years. What I remember from my past visit was a remarkably simple yet complex flavor scheme that was executed surprisingly well. Flavors that normally would not be paired together married in great harmony. And for all intents and purposes, this is still the case. Our table was boring in that we all had the pappardelle bolognese and the 1/2 chicken. We started with the grossly over priced antipasti which was 2 pieces of toasted baguette smeared w/a chicken liver pate. There was a small pile of greens on the plate and small torta-esque thing. Do not get me wrong all were delicious and had the Sfoglia simple yet complex trademark ingredients. Next we split the wild mussels, tomato, garlic, salami, fennel pollen. Again, flavors that other restaurants would dare to use worked perfectly in this dish. If the mussels were not so over cooked it would have been great. The chicken al mattone was great. Not quite as good as I remember but still far superior to 99% of all chickens I have had in a restaurant. It was all very good to excellent yet...
Yet none of us could get over the smell of sewer/kitty litter/cat urine/mold that was periodically wafting through the air. I have a very sensitive nose so I tried to ignore it at 1st. It was very powerful as we entered the new dining area that they have expanded into. Now I suppose you could write it off as newly painted walls (generally oil based paint, which I am almost sure you have to use, has a musty nasty smell at 1st) but I don't think that was that. Has anyone else noticed this or was it actually a one off which I am hoping?!
Based solely on the merits of the food I would say that Sfoglia is still a worthy restaurant. But given how expensive it has become the farm house charm and communal tables are out of touch. Not to mention the mystery smell!
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