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Sevilla, Spain--Trip report (Nov. 22-25)

ninkat | May 27, 201502:52 PM

I have lurked and gotten amazing recommendations here for years, and have been shy about posting, but going to rectify that now. Seville is an amazing town and welcomed this woman traveling solo everywhere. Here's where and what I ate:

Albarama--Risotto w/mushrooms and truffles and duck breast w/crunchy parmesian crisp. Solomillo with insane hazelnut pudding. I napped when I got in, and went on the late side for dinner. Friendly maitre d' got me a glass of wine immediately, and apologized for the 5 minute wait. This was a perfect 1st night meal.

Eslava--Mushroom cake with quail egg, coquinas, manchego ice cream with tomato jam. Went at lunchtime on Sunday. It was difficult (with little Spanish) to figure out how to get seat at the bar, but again, the people behind the bar looked out for me and got me a seat. Loved this little meal...the little clams I find addictive, served simply here, and the other two dishes not to be missed, if possible.

Vinerino San Telmo--Salmon tartar, grilled mushrooms w/onions, squid ink pasta with scallop (and roe). This wasn't as warm an experience as some of the others, but it was pouring out, and the food was again delicious. I wouldn't normally have ordered the salmon tartar, but wanted something light, and the waiter recommended. I loved it, and the squid ink pasta was sublime.

La Azotea Santa Cruz--Langoustine in fried phylo dough packets with tomato (or red pepper sauce), coquinas with garlic, oil, and artichokes. Mint ice cream, gin ice, all floating in orange cream sauce. This is a restaurant that has a few different locations. I sat outside with the orange trees for lunch, and had another delicious meal. The coquinas with the artichokes were even better here than Eslava, but that's mostly because they came with baby artichokes. When a party of 4 arrived and wanted to sit outside, before I had been served my dessert, I offered to move inside so they could have my table and the empty one next to me, but the waitress wouldn't hear of it. Again, wonderful service.

The Bodega--Fried ham and blue cheese, goat cheese on bread, grilled tuna with same onionas goat cheese on bread. Not memorable food, but lively. Only place on the itinerary I wouldn't go back to.

Enrique Beccera--Ate all from specials menu: scallop, roast beef with potatoes, melted goat cheese with onion jam and toast. Dessert was bitter orange pudding. Wonderful meal.

Petit Comite--Potato salad w/shrimp, octopus w/mashed potato, grilled pork. “Cheese cream” sort of manchego creme brulee. Best meal of the trip. I'm not usually a potato salad fan, but this was sublime. I stuffed myself here because I couldn't make decisions. Again, amazingly warm service, and great food.

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