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"Four Seasons Beans"; @ Jook N Fun, SF

Melanie Wong | Dec 7, 2005 10:56 PM

No sooner had I posted an assurance that Jook n Fun's menus were all in English than things change! On Monday, I had lunch there with my parents. This place is fast becoming their favorite spot in SF. New this time were two tablets posted on the wall with about 7 dishes each written in Chinese. They were at a bad angle for my father to read, so I asked our waiter to let us know what they were. He was happy to read them off, but then the seniors couldn't hear him clearly. I ended up asking which of the special dishes he liked the most and went with that not knowing what it might be.

The dish turned out to be dry sauteed Chinese long beans in a soulful combination with bits of fatty pork, salty preserved vegetable, and briny dried shrimp. The aroma was fantastic intense greenness mingled with pork fat meatiness, fermented pungency and salted seafood. Perhaps an acquired taste, but we loved it. The kitchen did a great job with this stir-fry, getting the high heat sear on the beans to crinkle them and seal in the flavor, as well as cooking them to the perfect toothsomeness and releasing the breath of the wok. The long beans themselves were excellent quality with an ultra-fresh taste and not dried out or rubbery. Intensely flavored and very salty, this dish would probably be better enjoyed with plain rice than the noodles we'd ordered.

I was trying to figure out which of the sets of characters listed on the board this might be when the bill arrived. The cash register tab listed the dish in English as "Four Seasons Beans" for $5.25. So perhaps one can order it by that name. Highly recommended.

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