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Restaurants & Bars 2

SEA / good time at perche no

howard | Aug 5, 200512:58 PM

in contradiction to those who think me incapable of 'fun', an unplanned visit to perche no (queen anne near mercer) proved delightful in every way not dependent on noise, cocktails and carefully chosen clothing. the room is cosy and charming, even a bit kitschy with its crude painting and plastic grapes. the waiter, so unlike his contemporaries elsewhere in seattle, actually was familiar with the menu and more than willing to assist with advice and explanation. not many wines by the glass but we only wanted one each. a special that night was wild boar cheeks and, though i know "wild" boar is farm-raised these days, that they were offering cheeks appealled to me and proved a superb choice; luscious and meaty in a simple red wine sauce served with white beans and sauteed zucchini. an appetizer of chilled squid in a not-too-tart vinaigrette was cooked to the perfect point; another 10 seconds would have toughened the flesh. also at the table was a lasagna contructed from house-made spinach-porcini pasta with the correct amount of ricotta and fresh tomato concasse, as good a ceasar salad as ever i have seen - all inside leaves and heavy on the anchovy - and good bread presented with house-made herbed oil. that the owner/chef is chinese is both surprising and delightfully seattlish. also open for lunch, i shall return....

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