I've meant to try this place for years, missed its original incarnation, wondered if the new owners could live up to the old owners' rep. Never mind all that: we arrive late on a weeknight, encounter warm and friendly service when we might have been turned us away, find the food eminently worth the trip out of the city.
Pleasant atmosphere, an elegant country-French feel, intimate booths and grape arbors overhead, far nicer than the lands-end exterior would lead you to expect. Good bread and evoo and a bulb of roasted garlic (not comped: a menu item we must order) to start. We guess that the antipasto will be straightforward and good here, and are rewarded. Funny how simply delicious good cold cuts can be.
We proceed modestly. A fettucine has quasi-German accents: fat noodles, cippolini onions, tiny cubes of turnip, a lot of finely cut and rendered duck in a puddle of broth. The cavatelli has a Sicilian flair: golden raisins, pignole, rabe.
Glad to have found this place, have been warned by locals that it's a tough table on weekend evenings.