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The Salzburg | North Beach - San Francisco

Melanie Wong | Dec 27, 201707:09 PM

The Salzburg opened in October, taking over the venue that had been Cinecitta in North Beach. In the neighborhood on a warm afternoon, I poked my head inside and wound up staying for a late lunch/pre-dinner snack.

The façade was without a sign at that point, so here's what the entrance looks like. The decor and subdued lighting inside reproduce the atmosphere of a weinstube in the Austrian countryside.

I went all the way to the patio in the back, sharing the community table by the (unlit) firepit. This was a lovely place to cool off at the end of a warm day. The label of my blood orange dry soda turned out to be color-coordinated with the salmon-hued fish on my appetizer.

Rösti, $16, featured three teensy potato pancakes about the size of a 50¢ piece. Rather than coarsely grated, the potato was a finer texture than what I'd call rösti. But they were crisp and made with clean-tasting oil. Topped with creme fraiche, a curl of Arctic char, snipped chives, and a few grains of caviar, they were tasty at one mouthful apiece especially with a bit of the fresh dill. The bed of dewy fresh frisee filling most of the gratin dish was completely undressed. I asked my server for some salt, oil and vinegar, so that it wouldn't go to waste. He returned from the kitchen with a ramekin of mustard-y vinaigrette to dress the greenery.

The Salzburg bills itself as a wine bar. The wine list features some very nice cool climate wines, as well as brews. I did not partake this time but I did admire the Lehman stemware and will have a drink when I return to try the housemade sausages.

Food quality and service were pretty tight for a three-week old spot. I liked everything about it but for the price. But I guess that's our new normal in San Francisco.

The Salzburg
663 Union Street
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 323-4845

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