Restaurants & Bars 7

Salt - New in Boulder - Brief Report

ClaireWalter | Sep 10, 2009 07:37 AM

We went to Salt, Bradford Heap's new restaurant in Boulder, for a light dinner last night. It's new, it's busy and it's good. Mid-price menu.

By choice, we sat at the 5-seat counter at the open kitchen in the back, watching the pizza guy crank out peach/Gorgonzola flatbread and Chef himself dispatching. A glass of Gruet bubbly for me, one of Barbera for my husband.

I had a nice, lightly dressed pear + greens salad and aforementioned flatbread. Pizza guy sliced a fresh peach for every order -- nothing pre-prepped to get get funky. Husband had a Tom's Tavern burger w/ skin-on French fries. Named in honor of the late Tom Eldridge, whose long-running Tom's Tavern was an institution at that location. Salt's burger was better interesting than Tom's ever were. The plump chickens in the rotisserie looked really good too, but neither of us wanted half a bird.

For dessert, we shared a trio of fresh sorbets that alternated on a plate with three small piles of finely chopped melon around a tall vodka glass of agave and fizzy water. During a brief break in the kitchen action, Chef Heap took a few steps over to us as we were spooning up dessert and asked how everything was. I said that everything was very good, except for the completely flavorless cantaloupe that I had just tasted. He immediately went to the dessert station to try it himelf, returned and told me, "You were right. I should have known that." I said, "You can't possibly taste every ingredient of every dish every day." He sent for more melons and personally began cutting them as we were leaving.

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