Restaurants & Bars 3

Sabor, Islington, London

limster | Feb 9, 200806:04 AM

A French (re-)interpretation of Latin American food. Tasty, fun and flashy, pretty good fundamentals. Not the kind of place to look for authenticity.

The fried balls of bolinas de bacalao are very good. Crisp outside, smooth inside, suave fibres of rehydrated salt cod amidst mashed potato. Guacamole is a bit redundant here, but fairly well made, even if it could have been a touch more compelling spicewise.

Scallops are cooked precisely and tender, with dashes of passionfruit sauce and other tropical flavours. Not a bad combination.

Clean, sharp ceviche; I was pleased with the presence of toasted corn.

In the aji de gallinha, saffron in the ma shed potatoes is more prominent than the aji amarillo in the sauce (not much of it at all in fact). The chicken is perfectly cooked, and the flavours work well together, just don't expected the yellow cloud of sauce in the traditional Peruvian version.

Alfajores are pretty good for dessert, with just the right tangy flavour in the dulce de leche. Coffee ice cream doesn't hurt at all.

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