We just got back from Rome.
Pro: It snowed for the first time in 26 years while we were there! How cool and how beautiful everything looked.
Con: It snowed for the first time in 26 years while we were there...The ground was wet and slushy, the taxis stopped running, most of the sites tourists visit shut down and we had to cancel our splurge night at All'Oro. Waa, waa
We had a fantastic time anyway!!
We arrived on Monday afternoon from Venice, checked into the fabulous Hotel Majestic and set out walking immediately, with the understanding that this would be our only sunny day in Rome. We wandered and wandered and then walked to VinoRoma for our 5:00 p.m. wine tasting, which we thoroughly enjoyed and actually learned some pretty good stuff. From there, our plan was to go to L'Asino D'Oro. To our great disappointment, when we got there, they were closed. Apparently, they are NOT open for dinner on Monday. That's okay, we had a plan B. Jump into a taxi toward Da Danilo. We had hoped for a wine bar/other type of bar near Da Danilo for a pre dinner drink and wandered in the hood for awhile searching (and used both Katie's and Elizabeth's apps trying to find one), but found nothing. At Da Danilo we ordered some arancini to start (very tasty, no oil residue), then my husband had cacio & pepe and I order the carbonara. Wow - the carbonara was incredible - we were fighting over it. We ordered the oxtail but they came back and told us they didn't have it and suggested a steak. I think it was good, but honestly all I really remember is the carbonara.
Day 2 - morning rain but headed over to the Jewish Ghetto, did a tour and walked around. It stopped raining so we hustled to the Colosseum and did a tour. We had planned to go that day to Perilli for lunch, but now I was worried that we'd get there after 2 and that they wouldn't serve us (based on reviews of surly service to tourists). To make matters worse, we tried to take a taxi but the driver told us no and that it was only a 5 minute walk. It wasn't a 5 minute walk. We arrived finally at 2:00 on the dot, but they graciously seated us and were very helpful and friendly, contrary to what I had feared. We ordered carbonara, amatriciana and split a roasted pork and an artichoke. The carbonara was very good, but didn't rate as high as Da Danilo. We really liked the amtriciana and the roasted pork, especially the crispy skin. Our stomachs stuffed with wine and food, we finally found a cab and raced back to Palatine hill to get in before it closed at 3:30. When we finally got back to the hotel, something I had joked about before leaving on the trip actually happened. My stomach waived the white flag and I surrendered. I had been dieting for 6 months prior to the trip and I joked that I needed to carbo train before I left so my body wouldn't reject the food. My body rejected the food that evening and we couldn't go out as planned to Pizzeria Tonda. Take out pizza for my husband, tums, pepcid, a coke light and other stomach potions for me.
Day 3 - I was still feeling rough, it was raining pretty bad but we headed out to the Pantheon and then kept our lunch reservation at Colline Emiliane. Luckily, I have a husband who can eat his fair share AND half of mine. We order two soups to start: vegetable and tortellini in brodo. They were both really, really good and sat well in my stomach. Next up, bolognese for husband, tortellini with spinach and cheese in a tomato sauce for me. They were both excellent. I was still feeling queasy - but the desserts looked so good and I'm so happy we ordered one slice of a walnut cake that had some chocolate at the crust. It was excellent - served a little warm. A top rate meal and by the way, the service was great and friendly. That night we took a cab to Da Remo for roman style pizza. Wow, it was delicious. I had a marguerite, my husband had mushroom. I ate half of mine and my husband ate the rest. Even though I didn't feel well, I still wanted to try everything and I certainly didn't want to deprive him of all the great food I had planned. The service was brusque and surly, but to everyone, not just tourists - although I really didn't see many tourists, and it was just part of the fun of the experience. I definitely recommend it and only wish we had made it to Tonda to try both styles of pizza.
Day 4 - very early context tour of the Vatican. Walked over to Pizzarium afterwards. I'm sorry to say that we were a little disappointed. We tried four varieties: potato, our favorite, artichoke, 2nd favorite, one with something like capicola on it, and the 4th I have just simply forgotten. Overall, they were just too oily and so, so heavy. I wish the marinara had been out when we ordered, although when they brought out before we were leaving, even it had a pool of oil on top. We were disappointed and it certainly didn't help my overall malaise...We were supposed to go to L'arcangelo that night, but I just didn't feel up to it. Instead, we went back to Colline Emiliane which was a block away from our hotel so I could have soup and my husband could have pasta again. We also had a caprese salad that was good.
Day 5 - snow day. Walked to Galleria Borghese in the snow for our 11:00 am reservation. While we were touring, we continually looked out the windows in disbelief at how hard it was coming down. The walk back to the hotel was gorgeous while we were inside the gardens, and then slushy, wet and slippery once we left. We were supposed to go to Palatium for lunch. Cars were sliding down Via Veneto, my socks were wet inside my boots, and we weren't going anywhere except the hotel's buffet lunch, which was very good but cost a small fortune. It slowly became clear as the afternoon dragged on that our touring was done and that dinner at All'Oro would not happen. Take out pizza and salad - at the suggestion of hotel staff who sometimes stop at this place on their way home. It may be Rome's equivalent of Domino's but it was a hell of a lot better than Dominos! It was kind of romantic eating pizza in the room with the snow coming down outside...
Should I have eaten more carbs and filling foods prior to the trip? YES! Did I have a great time anyway? YES! My only regret: I didn't eat any gelato in Rome. It was just too, too cold. All in all, your recommendations were excellent. We had great food and great service, everywhere we went. Thanks again for all of your help!
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