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Restaurants & Bars 43

Rogue 24 in DC - Report

Steve | May 9, 2012 03:52 PM

Chef RJ Cooper hit a home run last night.

Oh sure, a couple of swing-and-a-misses early on, but he doesn't call his 16 course meal a Progression for nothing. It really does evolve, and it was a success.

Rogue 24 took a lot of flack in its early days for starting off with a rather imposing 'contract' to dine there. Ultimately, though, it turns out to have a very casual vibe with all diners no more than a few feet from the centralized kitchen. Anyone who wants to can talk up the chef. Or flag down the cooks/sommelier/servers who are kept in constant motion preparing and modestly presenting their parade of wares.

At the prices they charge, you are going to get a bit of theatre with your dinner, but it is all in keeping with the success of the dishes. Extra props for including some tastes (the bitterness of vegetable ash, the suppleness of tongue) that other high-end chefs would shy away from. Run away from, actually.

I'm not going to go into a description of the dishes. It's a glorious amount of fun to discover for yourself.

Purse string notes: It's $110 for the 16-course Progression, and it's hard to imagine sitting any longer or having the capacity for more food. We were there for about 3 hours. There is the eponymous 24-course option as well.

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