I think this kind of restaurant is just what Chowhound is for: an undistinguished looking restaurant beside a laundromat in an ugly town-- and the food is worth a special trip. I don't know how this former White House chef landed here, but we are the beneficiaries.
An amuse bouche of spinach and potato bisque was rich and deep, followed by a cream of crab soup that was delicately flavored with paprika and a touch of cinnamon, with sherry added at the end, and sprinkled with good claw meat (no shells). After a lemon sorbet intermezzo, my entree was baked rockfish with a silky tarragon sauce sprinkled with strips of sun dried tomato on a bed of spinach. One companion's potato was carved into a mushroom shape and made from fluffy Idahoes.
Dessert was a Grand Marnier souffle, which was superb. Quite a rich meal, so I was glad I had skipped lunch. We had chosen the prix fixe menu (available on Thursday and Sunday only I think), which is a great bargain at $38, and added the souffle for an added $5. A wine flight was a bargain at $16 for three 6 oz pours of decent house wine. Even though prices on the regular menu range from $26 to $45 for an entree, I'd come back on another day too: it's that good.
The only negative was the ditsy, inefficient and self absorbed waitress, who forgot menus and wine refills, and regaled us with uninteresitng stories about her life. Luckily she will be gone by summer.