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Report: Highland Creole Cuisine

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Report: Highland Creole Cuisine

C. Simon | Jun 13, 2003 05:23 PM

A large portion of the taxi drivers in the Boston area are from Haiti. Ask any Haitian taxi driver what their favorite restaurant in the area is (as I often do), and the two most commom responses will be Bon Appetit (Dorchester) and Highland Creole Cuisine (Somerville).

Highland was hopping at lunch time, full of people picking up take-out orders.

On the waiters' recommendation I had "goat with sauce." My first choice, "fish with sauce", was "not ready yet", so goat it was. (I did learn that the fish was red snapper -- which, like much of the menu, comes either "fried" or "with sauce".)

A peppery tomato-based sauce smothered fork-tender pieces of goat. Although the taste was discernably goat, it was sufficiently mild that one could even fool a non-discriminating diner into thinking it was beef. In other words, it wasn't "high."

About half way through the meal, I longed for something to sop up the pool of tasty sauce. On queue, the waitress brought a plate of rice and beans (which comes with the meal, along with a perfunctory salad.) The rice-and-beans were fluffy, toothsome, and tasty -- an addictive trifecta.

Refreshingly, there isn't the slighest evidence of catering to American tastes. I hope to be back.

One more thing, for anyone in search or the hard-to-find drink Irish Mash, Highland Cuisine has it.

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