I am planning a trip to New Orleans. I went once about 20 years ago the weekend before Mardi Gras. Was only there one day and didnt get to see or do much. I did get a muffelata at the Central Grocery and drink a Hurricane at O'Brians. Walked around the French Quarter some.
I have always dreamed of going back to eat my way across New Orleans (the person I was with was not really into food). So I am finally planning a trip sometime in 2005. Not sure how long I will stay, but I will be on my own and this is primarily an eating trip so I dont really want to go during any of the huge tourist/festival times (ie Mardi Gras, Spring Break, Jazz Fest etc). I just want to go and eat. I am planning to stay in/near the French Quarter, in a historic hotel/B&B and I wont have a car so am looking for restaurants accessible by cab (for dinner) or on foot/steetcar/bus (breakfast and lunch). I was considering the cooking vacation offered by the "New Orleans Cooking Experience", but given the prices I may just spend my money on dining. I want to have dinner at some of the classic places such as Antoine's, Gallatoire's, Brennan's, Commander's Palace, Emeril's etc and am wondering if these places live up to their reputaions or are they overrated. But also want to know the best places for Po Boys, muffelatas, red beans and rice, gumbo etc. I am the "compleat foodie" and would like advice/recommendations as to how to maximize my eating opportunities. Will probably be going during the week and staying 4-5 days, probably sometime March or April (although it might be May or June).
Hope y'all can help me!