while i sincerely wish i could read or speak chinese, i really only have a whisper of competence in the subject that interests me (and apparently you all) the most. so while a casual observer (like yimster) might think i read and speak beautiful mandarin, it is sadly just an illusion. a parlor trick, when the parlor happens to be a restaurant and i happen to be dining alone.
now, after a gu zheng performance at city college, i went to the chinese joint immediately west of ppq on the north side of irving bet. 19/20th last night, and had some nice chow. namely, the items in the subject line. razors are perhaps my favorite clams, and these fully satisfactory examples are of the 'atlantic' affiliation.
but what really beguiled me was the crab. excellent salt and pepper prep, although i wonder if crab quality is fading at this point. maybe it was just the critter i got, and an artifact of the prep, but the thin forelegs tended to be a bit dry and mushy. nevertheless, i spent some very quiet, content minutes diligently investigating as many examples as i could.
pork patty with salted fish featured lively chopped or coarse ground texture, but i prefer the salted fish flavor to be better blended into the patty, rather than just haphazardly scattered on top. this dish went very well with the special chopped serrano/oyster sauce that was requested for the table.
daily veggies and onion pancake were also above average.
finally, let me mention that the li tong 'daily soup' was exceptionally good, and our table requested a second tureen. deep rich cloudy pork stock with fully rendered leeks, this was not the thin, slightly sweet stuff you get at cheaper cantonese places.
the place is a bit pricey with certain items ($10 pork patty), but overall quality and value are apparent. i took long, approving glances at the lobster lo mien and other dishes on other tables. the place is open latish, and appears to be well regarded by a broad spectrum of patrons.
recommended. now, of course, i wish i could supply you with the name, but all i can say is that the chinese characters (not that i really speak chinese) are 'dwo dwo' or 'more more'. my thoughts exactly.