Six Chowhounds tried out the new Range in Chevy Chase.
Although the menu is only one page, it is deceptive. In it’s small typeface there are 26 main courses, 12 side dishes, pizzas, raw bar, charcuterie (with a separate selection of five hams), salads, cheese, and seven different breads and spreads. Even though we were six, it could take us many visits to put a considerable dent into the menu.
We ordered a formidable charcuterie tasting board for $48 that we couldn’t finish. There were about ten items, all of them at least fine and pleasant. My favorite was some thinly sliced ham that was outrageously good, though I can’t be sure which of the five hams on offer were included with the tasting. I think it was the Benton’s ham, which would make sense as it richly deserves the accolades it receives.
We also ordered a baker’s basket of all the breads and spreads for $10. Again, not a clunker in the bunch and a lot of food to consider. The bacon marmalade was my favorite spread.
Three vegetables followed for us: fried brussels sprouts, cauliflower with raisins, and sunchokes with lemon. There are several really great places to get brussels sprouts in the area, but this might be the best of the best.
I was already feeling the effects of filling up, and we ordered three main courses and two pastas. Plenty of success here, but the standout was the merguez stuffed lamb breast. It is a served in a cocotte, and a big portion at that. This could work as a main dish shared for two. Fantastic deep flavor of the lamb, plenty of rich crunch to the pan roasted crust, and the spicy merguez added a terrific zing. A very hearty dish. Other main courses sampled were a striped bass filet with bbq hazelnuts, pork cheeks, goat cheese ravioli, and a lobster mac n’ cheese. Aside from the lamb, I enjoyed but was not thrilled with the other dishes.
We finished off the meal with a single dessert: a three part tropical selection involving a tart and dense pie, an ice cream and a sorbet.
Food critics will love this place as they can recommend everything across the board.
A Chowhound looking for a quick, beautifully prepared meal without dropping a lot of money can turn their attention to the copious side dishes: the skillet cornbread with bacon marmalade, a starch, and an exquisitely prepared vegetable will set you back about $15. That’s some mighty fine vittles!
They seem to have quite a lot of counter seating for the solo diner, so although reservations could be hard to acquire, an individual or couple may be able to snag counter seats before a show or movie without much advanced preparation
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