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Restaurants & Bars 7

Radius bust

MC Slim JB | Apr 26, 2006 10:24 AM

Stopped by Radius for a drink and dessert at the bar, something I remember this being a reliable place for.

Desserts turned out to be awesome-sounding on the menu, beautiful on the plate, but dull on the palate. I guess there's a comparatively new pastry chef there, but our chocolate trio and carrot cake (our server's favorite) did not hit the heights we remember here and reliably find elsewhere (e.g., Ron Roy's work at Caffe Umbra.) Each had a flash of brilliance (the ice cream in the trio, the shot of hot Chai-like tea with the cake), but overall did not wow.

Cocktails were similarly hit or miss, one done perfectly, another really bad. When we suggested a correction to the bad one, the barman poured the drink back into a shaker of ice, literally waved a bottle over it (a trick I guess he thought he was getting away with, with his back to us, but I saw it), and strained it back into a glass. Voila: re-chilled, but still sucking.

Can't say I feel good about spending that $70. The place still looks great, but we hit a major downhill in areas where it used to shine. Too bad.

Looking at the menu -- entrees mostly near $40, most apps in the high teens, wines averaging over $80 -- I figure it isn't hard for two people to hit the $250 mark here. I can't say I'll be rushing back to risk a full dinner again, despite some fine experiences here, especially in its early days.

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