Havent had a chance to provide some data points from our just completed Rome visit - 5 days were too short to more than make a dent in either visiting or eating in this amazing city.
Our arrival on Friday Sept 28 was a little later than expected - I had planned to head over to L'Asino d'Oro, but their failure to reply to my email, a couple of discouraging reports and the late arrival scotched that plan - we headed instead to Il Bocconcino, a slowfood rec on Via Ostilia just around the corner from our apartment . We had a very competent and tasty lunch - mine fresh tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and animelle (sweetbreads) with peas and prosciutto. Both dishes werewell prepared and very tasty, as was my husband's roasted sea bass, surprisingly large. Cant remember his first. We drank the house white which was acceptable, Meal stacked up well against other experiences, sorry we werent able to return for another visit,.
Dinner, like all dinners on succeeding days, was bread cheese salumi and fruit and veg from the local supermarket - very good quality, very nice sheep cheeses. We bought some good wine from a very nice enoteca on Via Ostilia (I think recommended by Katie Parla) - friendly attentive owner (I believe) wished we had got back to taste other wines.
Next day Sat featured a long wander down by the Circus Maximus to visit the Farmerrs Market - there was also a huge food fair on in the Circus. Lots of good products in both places but saw nothing compelling to buy (except what looked like Senise or similar peppers in a calabrian booth - I was really sorry afterwards that I did not exert myself to buy some. After a visit to the Capitoline museums and a ramble into the center, we were able to snare a table at Armando al Pantheon for lunch and they came through for us excellently. with a fine spaghetti alla gricia and trippa alla romana for me and good biggish lambchops for husband. He also had farro soup which he really enjoyed but which for me was marred by strong truffle flavor/I think truffle oil. We were seated at 2 so they were running out of cicoria and other vegetables - the mixed veg plate I had was very ordinary. Wine was a Sogno red (merlot I think) from Terracina, delicious. But overall the food quality was very good and the service and atmosphere excellent. I continue to highly recommend for their continued solid performance and excellent welcome.
Sunday started with a long walk through Monti and visit to the National Museum collections at Palazzo Massimo. returned to Monti for lunch at Urbana 47, very nice stylish place, modern decor, open kitchen, serious about what they are doing reminded me a little bit of Frannys and Brooklyn Larder, in my home nabe - my farro salad with tomatoes, beans and hardboiled eggs was very carefully made, with good ingredients and husband enjoyed his small plates brunch which included ribollita, a sauteed veal dish served over spinach, and a smallish slice of tart, probably another item I am blanking on. I thought his dishes were good but not extraordinary We would go DDutch back, for sure.
not about food - forget about visiting the Vermeer exibition - it only has about 6 vermeers (mostly from NY and DC and only 1 of top quality, surrounded by a large group of works by Dutch contemporaries. Exhibition space in the former vatican stables on the Quirinal is very nice though.
to be completed. .