A few notes on my recent trip up there, stayed with friends so didn't eat out that much but what I had was good, so:
Hugo's-- had dinner at this restaurant which I understand was an old blue-haired lady place for years which has become a much trendier place (chef worked at French Laundry in Napa). I've eaten at one other FL-grad place, the beyond-cutting-edge Trio here in Chicago, and this was much more sedate and "normal." We had the chef's dinner (he makes whatever he feels like) and everything was very good, clean flavors and light yet interesting combinations, not too minimalist and not too weird. Courses included a very simple fluke tartare over, basically, guacamole, a duck dish that had several different preparations/type of duck including foie gras, a salt cod brandade, a robust veal cheek in red wine reduction (so tender the steak knife was superfluous) with a dollop of crabmeat and bernaise, and a very light dessert that was like a root beer float except two totally different flavors (like a watermelon ale and pistachio ice cream, or something, I forget).
Flatbread-- a VERY California-ish pizza place (a lot of philosophizing about the natural and artisanal ingredients). Happily, though I thought some of the meat ingredients like sausage were not so flavorful, the texture of the brick-oven baked crusts and the veggie ingredients on several of the pizzas (we had a large party) were all first rate.
Beale Street-- What are we doing eating BBQ in a place with a Memphis name in Maine? Hell if I know, but for Yankee 'cue this was pretty good. Good hand with the smoker on the pulled pork, beans and slaw were less exciting or flavorful.
Five Islands Grocery-- a little stand on the property of some neighbors of my friend selling high end yuppie artisanal foodstuffs. Funny that your choices in this town are this and the canned beans at the sub-7-11 country store, basically. Some "hippie-raised" (as my friend put it) hamburger meat cooked up exceptionally well, and we picked up lots of souvenirs aka jars of local goodies.
Dena's-- On our way back from L.L. Bean to lunch at a dockside lobster joint, we saw a tour bus heading for Georgetown with Jersey plates, and joked that it was going to disgorge a horde of elderly tourists who would take up all available seating and kitchen time at the Five Islands Lobster Co. The joke turned to horror as the bus anticipated our every move and finally parked at Five Islands, dumping seniors like the latest haul from a fishing net. Fortunately my friend remembered another place called Lisa's, and we headed back to Five Islands Grocery for directions.
Lisa's was now Dena's, but nothing else evidently had changed. So we headed over to THAT lobster shack and ordered up lobster rolls (it's a lobster in a hot dog bun, not terribly exciting) and fried popcorn shrimp (absolutely delicious, no one can eat just 20), and felt highly smug compared to our fellows eating the exact same thing at Five Islands Lobster Co.