Restaurants & Bars

Pulcinella and Fatburger in Calgary


Restaurants & Bars 24

Pulcinella and Fatburger in Calgary

Gobstopper | Apr 27, 2006 05:51 PM

Just had lunch at these places over the last two days.

Fatburger was the destination of choice for my two nephews. In the midst of the monstrosity (or triumph) of Deerfoot Meadows, Fatburger seeks to conquer the rather bizarre food war going on in the area. The interior is remixed diner style. It has the same hollow ring to it that Krispy Kreme has - They want to look like Diner Deluxe, Lido Cafe, but they don't want to have to source out individual items.

The food itself is pretty much akin to Boogies Burgers. Onion rings were the only standout achievement, they are said to be made to order (I didn't see anyone slicing onions).

If forced to go to a burger place, I see little difference between Peters, Harveys, Boogies and now Fatburger. Maybe Harvey's doesn't belong on that list, but I doubt many could tell the difference blindfolded.

Pulcinella has beckoned since I saw the glowing Gilchrist review. That said I am not so overwhelmed by the use of products so exclusively from Italy (at least from a socio/political bent). The interior is much like Criterion (of Stephen Ave back in the day). Lots of white. The forno is tiled with a small mosiac tile which is quite nice. Bizarrely, like Muse, they have theatrical face masks hung here and there. Maybe it's a neighbourhood cure for "Bermuda Triangle" restaurant syndrome.

We ordered a couple of pizzas, the classic tomato and a prosciutto and mushroom. I was not suprised after having seen the photos that the pizza was quite wet in the middle. Even the folding trick doesn't save you after those crucial first moments have passed. The flavours were good italian classics and the prosc/mush pizza had a nice roasted piece of basil on it. The crust has great bounce and a wonderful ashen residue on the bottom. I think they depend on the parmesan to provide a bit of salt to the sauce, which wasn't quite enough in this case, and no s+p at the table. I believe that it's a fairly genuine representation of Naples pizza and I'm glad to have had it.

Divino makes better pizza.

Want to stay up to date with this post?

Recommended From Chowhound