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Restaurants & Bars 2

Poulet Frites at Enoteca Drago

David Kahn | Mar 16, 200508:28 PM

Had dinner last night at Enoteca Drago (410 N. Cañon Dr., Beverly Hills, 310/786-8236), and wanted to note that, surprisingly (to me at least), they do a very creditable poulet frites. Nicely roasted chicken, sauced rather than crispy, but the sauce is nice. Chicken was only slightly overcooked (which, in my experience, is about the best one can hope for from restaurant roast chicken these days). Highlight was the fries, which were head thumpingly good; light and fluffy inside, perfectly crispy, very hot, salty, and not the least bit greasy or soggy. It would be worth going, sitting at the bar, and ordering drinks and french fries alone. These fries are an accomplishment, really.

Other stuff: Good chopped salad with tomatoes, blue, avocado, and Italian bacon. Missus K's eggplant penne was good too. Nice house Chianti by the glass. Service was understated and professional, and, from what I could tell, our party was treated exactly the same as Dustin Hoffman and companions, who were seated next to us. Dinner for three, with wine, bottled water and 20% tip, came to $150.

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