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Restaurants & Bars 19

Pizzeria Uno

Mugs | Jan 27, 2004 10:59 PM

My wife and I recently returned to P. U. at Wabash and Ohio for the first time in about two decades. We were both left wondering, "Where has the flavor gone?" Has it--buttery crust, some tang to the tomato sauce, a rich mozzarella flavor, pervasive oregano--been tamped down for the tourist trade? While what Pizzeria Uno/Duo serves is technically pan pizza and what Giordano's serves is technically deep dish pizza (if I've got the terms right), the Uno's pizza we had Saturday night seemed indistinguishable from the low-flavor Giordano's now sold at suburban locations. I'm wondering, dispiritedly, if these two flagship Chicago pizzas, each once most worthy in their own right, have melded into one generic pizza of some height but nearly no flavor. Is Chicago deep dish/pan pizza now as empty as any band's version of "Sweet Home Chicago"? Are these pizza icons now just going through the motions?

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