Osteria dell’Enoteca in Canale
About fifteen to twenty minutes northwest of Alba is the beautiful town of Canale. Adjacent to the Piazza Martiri della Liberta you will find the Enoteca Regionale del Roero and across the courtyard is the Osteria dell’Enoteca. The chef is Davide Palluda who also owns Ristorante All’Enoteca, which has garnered acclaim from both Gambero Rosso and Michelin for what it’s worth. We dined there in 2012 and thoroughly enjoyed it. The food is traditionally based but has some more creative elements.
The Osteria, however, which did not exist in 2012, is almost entirely based on traditional Piemontese cuisine. Shortly after we arrived, Davide came by for a fifteen minute discussion that ranged from Italian politics and retirement ages to what David Letterman is doing now.
The dining room is traditional but with some modern touches like steel ibeams rather than wood, it works well. There is also dining outside in the shaded courtyard. The service is very good but the downside is the (high quality) paper napkins.
I will try to post a menu, but we had vitello tonnato, blue cheese stuffed ravioli with asparagus cream sauce and crushed hazelnuts, potato gnocchi with sausage sauce, and roast suckling pig. I had a bowl of just sweet strawberries for dessert.
Other items on the menu included poached egg with artichokes and Pecorino, zucchini flowers stuffed with seirass and tomato water, creamed salt cod, plin with roasted meat sauce, veal with Arneis wine and seasonal vegetables.
The prices were incredibly low, 8-9 euros for primi and appetizers and 12-15 euros for secondi. Desserts were all 7 euros. I really thought the servings would be tapas sized but I was wrong. Everything was first rate and my wife said the ravioli was her favorite dish of the trip. We also had two glasses of Roero Nebbiolo.
The Osteria may be a bit of a trek for those staying near Barolo, but if you are staying near Alba, Barbaresco or in the Roero this place is definitely worth a visit.
Il Ciau del Tornavento in Treiso
If any restaurant in Piemonte can rival Osteria Veglio for the views, Il Ciau del Tornavento, with it’s sweeping views over the hills of the Barbaresco vineyards, is it. The well appointed dining room has a wall of floor to ceiling glass doors which are opened to the air on nice days like the day we visited.
Service was pleasant and professional but not particularly warm.
The wine steward asked if we would like to view the wine list shortly after we were seated but neglected to bring it. After about 15 minutes I reminded the waiter that I still had not been given the wine list and it was finally brought over. Of the five Arneis wines on the list, they were sold out of three,but had just received the 2017 vintage of one. We ordered it, I do not recall the producer but it was very good.
The menu is quite large with many items that appealed to us. They first brought out a dish of four different stuzzichini for each person. Salmon, rabbit,raw sausage and cheese. We also chose agnolotti del plin di Seirass, gamberi di San Remo in a hazlenut crust, spaghetti con seppie e bottarga di muggine, and ricciola in crosta, asparagi, salsa olandaise. We skipped dessert as we were on our way to Malpensa to catch a flight and a thunderstorm began to roll in. Every thing was very visually appealing and tasted sublime. If I were to judge this restaurant only on the food and ambience it would certainly be the best meal we had. Unfortunately, the service was somewhat hit or miss. But it is definitely a place we will return to.