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Restaurants & Bars

Perry St -- best $24 lunch in town

Brian S | Nov 2, 200608:06 PM     34

If you haven't been to Perry St Restaurant yet, but still think, "three N.Y.Times stars for Jean-Georges Vongenrichten's second-best restaurant, it MUST be overrated" -- well, a $24 prix-fixe lunch there is a delightful way to change your mind. The prix-fixe is all they serve at lunch. You're presented with a menu listing twelve courses, and you can choose any two plus dessert for $24, and each additional course costs $12. (I'm not sure if you are allowed to choose both the veal and the beef tenderloin as your two courses, but there's no division between appetizers and entrees.) Here's what my $24 got:

Amuse-bouche cup of borscht made with apples, beets and horseradish.

First course Five huge, luscious shrimp rubbed in spices and grilled, served atop a mustard-yellow mild puree to one side of which, poured tableside, was ain intenseley-flavored chorizo broth.

second course A grilled sea bass filet, crispy skin on, atop a green puree laced with fennel. Atop the bass were caramelized radishes that tasted like yummy sweet potatoes. On one side was a tiny lake of tangy ruby grapefruit coulis.

Dessert -- goat cheesecake, macerated cherries with celery leaves, purple sorbet and caramelized nuts.

A lovely modern space a lot like Nougatine, great service, river view. And for most of the time I was there, the place was empty except for me and the waiters. You'd expect a line out the door.

176 Perry St, entrance on West St.

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