My bar gets Il Messaggero. One Giacomo A. Dente reviews restaurants, which appear on Tuesdays. He does a good job of covering Rome restaurants, ranging occasionally farther afield. But his reviews are pretty worthless: 300 or so words describing the owners, the ambience, and then a listing of dishes without any substantive evaluation (other than: “non dimenticare di …”). Pretty much all of his reviews are 7 or 8 out of 10 punti. How does that help readers?
So which national papers do y’all read for restaurant criticism? Forget about regional papers - no real reviewing going one, AFAIK.