First, a big thank you to everyone who responded to my queries with a special thanks to Parigi for her expert knowledge of the 9th which proved very useful throughout the trip! This was the first time I’ve used CH to plan and it was so helpful, especially since we were dealing with Holiday closures and needed multiple options when we discovered our original choices would be closed.
I was traveling with my mother & we stayed in the 9th, just off the southern end of rue des martyrs. I absolutely loved the area and it may have surpassed the 11th/12th border as my favorite place to stay. Despite many restaurants being closed for the Holidays, we were able to have some wonderful meals:
Terroir Parisien at Palais Brongniart – We went back and forth about what to do for NYE but were pleased with our choice. Both locations had similar menus but we went to the newer one since it was walking distance for us. We chose the 5 course menu for €90 (there was also a 7 course option for €110) which I thought was a relative bargain compared to all of the €300+ menus I came across while researching. Highlights included a delicious amuse bouche of foie gras lollipops dusted in pistachios, a roasted scallop atop a puree of Jerusalem artichokes and the praline and chocolate cake with clementine sorbet.
L’Assiette – We came specifically for the cassoulet and it didn’t disappoint. It was very hearty and the duck in particular was fantastic. On the recommendation of a friend I ordered the crème caramel with salted butter for dessert and loved it. Not recommended unless you have a serious sweet tooth like I do though! Mom had the profiteroles which were very good as well.
Les Saisons – Absolutely loved everything about this place! All dishes were good but the starters really stood out. My mother had seared foie gras with pureed parsnip and raspberries and I ordered the artichoke salad with Parma ham and shaved parmesan cheese. For mains, I had a white fish special and she had the veal. Desserts were rice pudding with candied nut clusters and a caramel sauce and crème brulee. Seating was cozy but not uncomfortably so and the service was fantastic.
Fuxia (rue des martyrs branch) – Good local spot for Italian. We had lunch here and I had a mushroom risotto and my mother had a pasta with a meat ragu.
Yam’Tcha – I had a fab meal at this Franco-Chinese restaurant in the 1st a few years ago. The restaurant is currently closed while they prepare to move to another location but the chef/owner has turned the space into a tea salon and bao shop. I stopped here for lunch and had the assortment of 5 buns. My favorites were the legume and the comte with sweet onions. It is takeout only and they will steam the buns for you.
Rue des M is truly a food lover’s paradise! Our routine was to visit a different bakery every morning so we could sample as many as possible and while all were good, Landemaine became the favorite. Excellent croissants and they make a nut (walnut, I believe) bread that is out of this world! I also need to give an honorable mention to La Boulangerie Verte for a delicious almond croissant.
I have been on a quest to try as many lemon tarts as possible in Paris and Sebastien Gaudard’s tartelette de citron is my new favorite (previously it was Ble Sucre in the 12th).
There are a few notable fromageries on Rue des Martyrs and in that area of the 9th but after having a lovely exchange early in the week with the proprietor of Chataignier (3 rue des Martyrs), I decided to do my shopping there to bring home. They were very helpful and their selection was terrific.
I also couldn’t resist some purchases at La Chambre aux Confitures which is a couple of doors up from the cheese shop. With 2 walls full of options, it is a bit overwhelming but the woman who runs the shop was so helpful and generous with tastings. I am savoring the raspberry/champagne and trying to make it last until I return to stock up again!