Just came back from a week's visit to the Eastham/Welfleet area. Not as heavily reviewed as P'town, so thought I'd offer some notes:
Best lobster roll: Hands down winner was the Friendly Fisherman in North Eastham. Overstuffed roll with huge pieces of super fresh lobster barely kissed with mayo. Almost too much to finish!!! (almost) Really one of the best I've ever had ANYWHERE!
Best salads: Serena's in Welfleet. Fresh (not bagged) greens, interesting combinations. I loved one with mixed fields, cranberries, walnuts, goat cheese and a plum vinegrette. Great relief after all the fried seafood.
Best ice cream: Nauset ice cream in North Eastham. Homemade and delicious...but still no comparison to Toscannini's.
Wonderful brunch: Wicked Oyster in Welfleet. Huevos rancheros done to perfection. Amazing black beans...
Assorted fried experiences: Had many fabulous ones, including Fish -n- chips at Moby Dick's (Welfleet) and the Chatham town fish pier (fish great, fries were those coated kind--yuck). Batter not at all thick, fish super fresh and totally non-greasy. Fried clams at the Friendly Fisherman done to perfection...light and fresh and the small size was really too big to finish for lunch (even without any sides!).