In his most recent chat Todd Kliman remarks on "the remarkable change in the cooking — lighter, tighter, brighter."
This would be welcome news. Any confirmations?
I’ve spoken twice, casually, to the owners, who insist there is no change in the kitchen. But I know as sure as I know anything that this simply isn’t true. The dim sum has gone from being pretty good to pretty damn great, and that’s not an easy leap to make, let me tell you. Especially not with dim sum. And especially not without some new force in the kitchen.
Just to give you one example: the taro dumplings. Most of the time this is a dish to avoid. And I mean — most of the time at dim sum restaurants. The shredded taro that makes up the wrapper of the dumpling is either greasy and soft, or dry and almost dusty in the mouth. The insides are often squishy, and sometimes undercooked. Not here. This one, the last time I had it, was marvelous. Crispy outside, flaky, light, and not at all gooey inside, with a filling that was not just surprisingly flavorful but also kept its integrity. It takes real skill to bring something like this off.
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