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France Trip Report

Ongoing Visit in the Gard


Restaurants & Bars 17

Ongoing Visit in the Gard

Laidback | Mar 26, 2014 10:50 AM

We are at the tail end of a 2 week stay in the Gard using a rented town-house in Uzès as our base. We had spent 3 nights here some 14-15 yrs. ago and vowed to come back for a more leisurely visit when circumstances permitted. We love the Lot & Dordogne valley areas as well as the Luberon among other areas in the southern part of France, but find that the villages of the Gard are perhaps a bit more "real" than the tourist laden villages such as St Cirq la Popie, Lourmarin, Sablet, St Remy de Provence, Ile sur la Sorgue, etc.

Uzès offers a favorable combination of size, history and facilities that appeals to us; there is a very good market on Saturdays and a smaller, more user friendly one on Wednesdays.

The preceding paragraphs are perhaps inappropriate on Chowhound so let me cut to the chase. Our favorite restaurant in Uzès is l'Artemise which we have visited for 2 lunches and one dinner (to celebrate a birthday of a Chowhound friend). The menu is the same at both services with a choice of 3 differently priced no-choice menus. If the weather is pleasant we prefer lunch as it is nice to dine on the terrace with the appealing views across the valley and the charming exterior of the buildings which were formerly the summer residence of the arch-bishop.

Just a cut below in ambiance is another spot we have also visited 3 times, La Table 2 Julien, in the neighboring village of Montaren. The young chef there has the best rapport qualité-prix we have experienced anywhere; a 3 course fixed menu at lunch for €24 that wowed us, shades of Daniel Rose when he had his original place up in the 9th.

Another more casual place with a charming terrace and well prepared food is 30 Sud in the pottery dominated little village of St Quentin la Poterie; friendly owner/chef/server, affordable and delicious.

The last place I will mention today is even more rustic and better known, often mentioned by the ever reliable Mangeur, called Le Tracteur, on the outskirts of the village, Argilliers. We have been twice and enjoyed it. The terrace is graced by its name sake, an ancient Massey Ferguson tractor. The interior escapes my ability to describe other than to use the over-used term "eclectic". The chef seemingly works solo behind a long, Waffle House type counter, turning out his 2 choice menu to a packed house even at this time which is not the high season. The walls are adorned with art work none of which screamed out "buy me", but the choices listed on the chalk board did. A very enjoyable place.

If anyone is interested in more than my sketchy details just ask.

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