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Restaurants & Bars 8

Oakland - Burgers - Park Burger

ChewChewChew | Jan 27, 201303:35 PM

Really Short Review: Best hamburger I’ve tasted in two years, full-stop.

The rest of the story:
There are few restaurants now that don’t have some form of the burger. There’s the high-end burgers from places that specialize in something else, but have to have it on the menu to satisfy those who got dragged there and who don’t want the frisse salad with lardon avec this ‘n that. There’s the diner-style burger joints (Glenn’s in the Laurel, Sparky’s off of highway 13) where they do a professional job of griddling up pre-formed meat. I won’t mention the Supersize Me Oligarcy of Grossness (SMOG). Then there are the joints where the burger is the point, and focus of pride, like Park Burger in the Glenview district of Oakland between Bellanico and Marzano’s.

Park Burger is a shining example of the burger done right. Locally sourced meat, cooked right with a good set of sides and condiments. They also serve a nice selection of beer and wine.

I ordered the egg and bacon burger because I hadn’t seen that combination offered before. I paired it with onion rings and a beer.

If you take a bite of any really great sandwich, it’s hard to tell what made that bite perfect. You talk about how good the bacon went with the meat, or that the bread was perfectly toasted, or that the lettuce gave it that great crunch, but you can’t really explain how it all works together to create an experience you’ll tell others about the next day (like I’m doing now, for instance…).

The Marin Sun Farms meat is not factory raised, filled with hormones, etc. I’ve actually gone to see the Marin Sun Farms herds in Tomales Bay and if I were a steer, that’s where I’d want to grow up. It makes the burger better, and the egg and bacon on it made for a heavenly combo.

The décor is dead-simple. It’s a rectangular box with metal chairs and unadorned diner tables. My wife thinks a row of banquets would improve the ambiance, and I agree. There is a nice pixelated mural of a map of Oakland on one wall.

There's no table service. You order from the counter and someone brings you your food (like Jimmy Beans in Berkeley).

Final Tally:

Food: 9 (Truly awesome burgers)
Service: N/A (The staff is nice)
Price: My burger was $10 (I’ve rarely been so happy to pay slightly more for anything)
Ambiance: 4 (Very basic. The bathroom is clean and spacious.)

4218 Park Boulevard, Oakland, California 94602

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