Thanks for the suggestions on Northampton. The area was beautiful and perfect for biking. And happily, no rain, despite the ominous weather forecast. And now for the important part: the food.
The high point was probably Bub's Barbecue. We loved the all-you-can-eat sides- collard green, sweet potatoes and dirty rice and many others. I had the pulled pork and chicken combo, my husband had the ribs and chicken. Totally excellent. We drove there from Williamsburg, but someone we met on our bikes told us it would be worth it to even RIDE the 30+ miles to North Amherst for their barbecue. We went to Sylvester's for lunch-good cornbread with the Huevos Rancheros and lots of character, especially the huge collection of salt and pepper shakers.
On another day, in our starving condition, we couldn't make it back to Northampton and stopped at Pete's Drive-in on Route 9 and had the fried clam belly platter. Not that I am an expert on fried clams, but I thought they were so good. And Herrell's didn't let us down either in the ice cream department. Unfortunately, the Williamsburg General Store will not have Wrapples until later in August. Alas.