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Nightengale Report -- new restaurant from Delux Cafe owner

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Nightengale Report -- new restaurant from Delux Cafe owner

C. Simon | Aug 13, 2002 03:07 PM

I am a big fan of Delux Cafe in the South End. Sort of a poor man's Franklin Cafe, Delux serves cheap American food with quality that belies the dive-bar surroundings.

Recently Delux Cafe opened Nightengale in the space formerly occupied by the recently departed Geoffrey's. The concept of the restuarant, they tell me, is to take Delux one or two nocthes further upscale. And, in general it is succssful.

Finnen Haddie and roasted corn chowder was tasty, if not memorable. Chilled cucumber yogurt soup was a refrehsing Indian treat. Roast chicken, the waiter's favorite, was done as well as you would hope a favorite neighborhood bistro would roast a chicken. A salad of squid and octopus with white beans and greens was fine, but not insprining. A decent version of a dish that is becoming awfully commonplace. Olive oil and baslasmic flavors abound. And, braised lamb shank was admirable, if not thrilling.

All in all, the South End hardly needs another mid-scale American bistro like Nightengale. It does perfectly fine gussied up American bistro food. So do lots of places in the South End. However, given the success of these other bistros, you can hardly blame the owners from jumping on the South End bistro bandwagon. If it ain't broke. . .

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