Restaurants & Bars 4

Nice, Grasse, Haut-Provence, Aix, Toulon & surr.

bishopsbitter | Nov 29, 200506:38 AM

I would appreciate any tips on small, unpretentious places in Provence. Not the English menu tourist joints (not that I would expect that from CH-ers). I know it's a big area Provence but my travels are likely to be more based on checking out a food tip (and possibly weather in the mountains) than anything else.
There are a lot of sources but not a lot that smack of a real grasp on what is really special (versus just good, which most all places might qualify for a visitor from the southern plains!). Particular interests: hearty traditional fare (game, slow-cooked stews, roasted meats) and Med. seafood specialties.

To give a clue to what I'm after, I remember a place in Amiens France from years ago where many a meal in fancier places has now totally gone from the memory. They served steak-frites and a beautiful green salade. The frites were served in plastic colanders and the wine in an earthen jug. The collars of the clientele were as blue (bleu I should say) as the steak itself; much gutteral banter and Hollywood soundstage quantities of cigarette smoke. Close to heaven and utterly unpretentious. This would fit the bill although I realize the Cote d'Azur is not exactly "blue collar" . . . but you know what I mean. NOT the haunt of the Beautiful [painfully thin!] People is what's sought.

Thanks a lot. This is my first trip to France (for arcane reasons, not insanity) in 20+ years so I can't exactly fall back on old favorites.

Thanks in advance.


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