"Once in a while, I’ve had tasting menus so extraordinary that none of these things seemed to matter. But the format presents formidable hurdles for customers and restaurants, enough to cause us to stop and wonder how many more meals like this we need."
I think Joshua Skenes of Saison made much the same point more succinctly:
"I've gone out to many excellent places where you feel like shit after the meal. I don't want guests to feel that way."