Grand trip, marvelous country, delightful people, delicious food. High points: Gli Ulivi and Il Mosaico in Ischia, both at Terme Manzi Hotel, Palazzo Petruccia in Naples, Coria in Caltigironde (perhaps our favorite of the "fancy" stops and an amazing value at 28 euros for a 3 course meal of great virtuosity), Trattoria Donna Rosa in Siracusa, Osteria de Mariano in Siracusa, Monte San Guiliano in Erice, Agriturismo Massimo de Mar in Avolo. Disappointment: Ristorante Il Dehors in Agrigento, the most expensive of our meals other than Il Mosaico and by far the least interesting.` In addition to restaurants (and leaving out the fine pizzerias and gelaterias) special kudos to the quality of the fish and produce in Sicily where, because we rented a house, we could shop and cook. Easily the best tomatoes, strawberries, apricots, oranges, fennel, etc. that we've ever had. Go, Eat, Enjoy.