In Naples last week I ate at some of the famous pizzerias: Sorbillo, Trianon, Port Alba and Da Michele. There were queues outside of Da Michele and Sorbillo. The pizzas are cheap (three euros for a Margherita) and were all very nice- all roughly the same standard. I ate twice at Da Michele- on one occasion the pizza had a different character to the other pizzas I ate. It was baked in less than a minute- that was the main difference I could tell compared with the other ones which took about two minutes to bake.
Most of the pizzas on menus are made with fior di latte cheese rather than mozzarella and have a lot of oil poured on them before baking.
Those of you that live in London: I am going to go back to make sure but I dont think the pizzas at eg Pizza Metro are far behind the Naples standard at all- perhaps the base is a little bit heavier at Pizza Metro, the pizzas there are of course much more expensive.
I tried some of the potato croquettes available at roadside stands, but even the ones with mozzarella in them were not all that great- but the mashed potato was light.
I bought a couple of chocolates to sample. Cioccalata di Modicano was one of the brands.