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木蘭辭 Mulan comes to Waltham

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木蘭辭 Mulan comes to Waltham

EATTV | Apr 9, 2011 08:22 AM

Legendary Chinese warrior heroine Hua Mulan (340ish BCE) inspired ballads, poems, novels a contemporary feature animation as well as Mr. Hua, chief of Mulan Taiwanese Restaurant in the P.R. of Cambridge. About a week ago a new Mulan outpost began operating from the former Beijing Star on Main Street in Waltham. In my continued quest for Sino Supper west of Boston, CHBFF and I landed on a deuce. Fujian servers were on top of the busy neat modern room filled with Asian, Indian and Brandeis diners. I liked what everyone was eating. The Taiwanese menu is extensive and we chose from Mu Lan's "recommended must try!"

Pickled cabbage and boiled peanuts made me want beer which they don't have. These came gratis w/hot&sour soup). Beef with Leeks wrapped in scallion pancake was redolent of five spice. This lightly fried version was gussied up with chilies and wrapped in doilies and served in a basket. (I prefer Taiwan cafe's version deftly crafted and served in it's own lard sweat). Salted Crispy Chicken was a winner with flash fried basil. Chinese Squash w/Shrimp was a light dish that let the ingredients shine. Presentations have all been given thought at Mulan. Pan fried yellow Taiwanese Noodle did not capture the high heat scorch of the wok and seemed a little like steam line fare. Rice Cakes with Pork and veggies that I'd had a grand version of at Shanghai Gate last week were very very chewy at Mulan. While these were not a great cross section of what might happen at Mulan it did learn me what the kitchen is capable of if only in week one.

Mulan
835 Main Street
Waltham, MA 02451
(781) 642-8888

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