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Mole De Olla at Los Alambres


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Mole De Olla at Los Alambres

Seth Zurer | Jan 27, 2004 11:35 AM

Another data point on Los Alambres, the restaurant that opened about 6 months on California just at Wellington, in the space that used to be Taquitos de Morelos.

We were there last night after seeing a couple of apts, and got an incredible bowl of "Mole de Olla", beef/vegetable soup with two massive osso-bucco like beef bones and plenty of carrots, string beans, mexican squash (calabasita? the little green and white eggplant shaped zucchini) and greens in a deep red thick beef broth, (almost like a mexican Bun Bo Hue sans noodles), gooily rich with collagen. It was a touch too salty, but tasted phenomenal and was the perfect antidote to wet feet and overpriced apts. This caldo may be the killer dish at Los Alambres, though I haven't tried the namesake menu item, which sounds a little too much like a skillet special, a little bit of everything in the kitchen with green pepers and cheese melted onthe top. I'm eager to try the other soups on the menu as well.

On the side came a little container of three fresh made hand pressed thick rustic tortillas, so freshly off the griddle that they burned my fingers. I devoured them and 5 more arrived instantly at no extra charge, each one more delicious than teh previous. My benchmark for fresh tortillas in the masa madonna's product on Maxwell St in the Rubi's (or is it Manolo's) stand. These tortillas are not there yet: they use a lighter colored masa, and the rotrtillas are a little thicker without that tiny tug of toothy resilience that launches the masa madonna's tortilla into the tortilla-sphere (tortilla-theon?), and needing a little more salt. But they're pretty great, especially given how fresh they are. The quality falls somewhere between the fresh tortillas at Los Mogotes de Michoacan on Kimball and the apothoseosis of griddled nixtamal at the Sunday Market.

The soup also comes with a little plate of orange rice and pico de gallo.

Last night, Kerensa had a gordita filled with pretty good chorizo (not as tasty as the chorizo that lurs in the melted cheese at La Oaxaquena on Milwaukee), but the form was freshly made and griddled and was delicious. She also had a quesadilla with poblanos and cheese, which was a little greasy, but good too. These quesadillas are little - not like the offerings at Dona Lolis or Rubi's: one normal tortilla folded over the filling.

Champurrado was good, but could've been a little more chocolatey.

We wanted to get oaxacan tamales, but they were all out - the owner says they sell 400 a day be the end of lunch, up from 100 a day when the spot first opened. We'll have to get there earlier to sample them. There was a special of Puerco en Chipotle, another temptation for a subsequent visit.

If Los Alambres stays this good, we may have to stop lookign at apartments outside of Logan Square.

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