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Restaurants & Bars 5

Miss Millie's just misses

Ken Hoffman | Dec 20, 200302:54 PM

This is a very charming Noe Valley restaurant that has received high praise in past notices. The ingredients are of high quality and the service was mixed.

The theme is billed as comfort food but it does not quite register as the real item. Comfort food should be completely and unabashedly unmindful of today's passing trends.

As we sat reminiscing about our mothers' macaroni and cheese, their offering was not at all comforting. Unlike the mama's version, there was no browned crust, no stringy cheese trail accompanying every lift of the fork or clumps of pasta glued together. The meal was served in an open bowl,
the pale contents practically emitting light. The flavor was noteworthy only for its lack of boldness and watered down chessi-ness.

The chicken pot pie was top hat high and full of lovely large chunks of white and dark meat. The soupy base was under salted. Perhaps the closest to comfort food.

The pan fried chicken on mashed potatoes was
an earnest attempt at the southern classsic. The white meal cut nicely,retained its juices and was almost a blinding white. No lingering fondness for the dish but I enjoyed it at the time of eating.

Two very nice appetizers: Fried green tomatoes and a beet/avacado salad both wonderfully fresh.

Miss Millie's
4123 24th St.
(24th @ Castro)
San Francisco, CA 94114
phone: 415.285.5598
hours: Dinner: Tuesday - Thursday (6 - 9:30 pm), Friday - Saturday (6 - 10 pm)
Brunch: Saturday - Sunday (9 am - 2 pm)

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