Gastronomie reports that a former Michelin inspector is spilling the beans on the Red Guide's workings.
-- Pascal Remy describes certain "untouchable tables" (query the meaning, presumably those restaurants for which the rating cannot be reduced by an inspector), and makes the explosive statement that more than **a third** of all three-stars don't meet expectations.
Pointing to the confidentiality clauses for Michelin inspectors, D Brown said: "On the issue of 'untouchable tables', that doesn't make sense. There's no reason to promote a restaurant when it's not justified." (What Brown does not talk about is whether a restaurant becomes untouchable (e.g., Bocuse, Guerard, Georges Blanc) when they were promoted some time ago, but have deteriorated, such that the restaurants might have justified three stars when promoted, but no longer do. The "untouchable" table question is very interesting, given the reputations of Bocuse and Guerard in the context of the Nouvelle Cuisine movement of years past and given, for example, Georges Blanc's heading of the supervisory body for Bresse chickens.)
-- The ex-inspector indicates that not all starred restaurants are revisited annually, which is not a surprise revelation.