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Restaurants & Bars

Michael Nadra, Chiswick - Fish Hook reinvented

Snufflehound | May 2, 201008:11 AM     1

Chef Michael Nadra has transformed both the restaurant and menu from what used to be Fish Hook, putting his own name above the door and reintroducing meat to the menu. That doesn't mean that he's sacrificed the fish offering though.
The Nadra ambience is refined but not stuffy, although we were a bit surprised that with a reservation and a relatively early booking that we were stuffed next to the kitchen door when at least 60% of the tables were empty (and by the time we left nothing had changed.)
There, having got the grouse over, if you're in west London and looking for something new, then give Michael Nadra a try?
The tartare of salmon amuses-bouches were gorgeous. Tart but not acidic, just layers of different flavours coming through. Starters: Scallops with salmon in lime juice tasted delicious (although I just can't get beyond preferring scallops warm and not cold, taking on a gelatinous consistency) and Ham hock ravioli which my partner raved about especially the chicken broth with it. Mains: I opted for sole which was beautifully presented and very delicately cooked and flavoured. Again my partner chose better than I and raved about the monkfish with brown shrimps. Too full for pud's so can't report back on those. I am comfortable reporting that I chose badly, but the other half was delighted with the food, choice of wine and whole atmosphere, and since the bill was hers I'm not complaining either. (And she's very very picky)
One of my personal picky areas is always the wine list and snotty sommeliers. However, for once I was comfortable handing over to this guy who was really friendly and with over 200 wines to chooose from has given himself plenty to recommend from and something new to try.
There will be a next time for us to visit, and despite that fact that it will be my turn to pay I won't be complaining. No it's not La Trompette, but how many areas can claim to have a restaurant of that standard? Michael Nadra is far above average in terms of local dining in its way and well worth a visit if you're in west London.
Amazing what a difference a change of name, a front of house re-fit and the reintroduction of meat can make? Oh yes, and a helpful but not patronising sommelier.

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