Last week I had a chance to check out the new whole animal butcher and deli in Seaside, The Meatery. Most of the salumi on display is produced elsewhere at the present time, including product from Salumeria Biellese, Fra' Mani, Creminelli, Hudson Valley Foie Gras, and La Quercia. I did sample a housemade headcheese, first asking if it was more in the German or Italian style. On tasting it, I'd say neither. It's studded with carrots and has a slight vinegary tang, but not nearly as tart as German style. The flavor's slightly herbaceous but without the sweet fennel and more assertive seasoning of Italian style.
The case of meats to cook at home held more interest for me, especially the pork sourced from Carmel Valley, Linda's Tasty Pigs and A5 Wagyu from Japan. I noted that the rabbit still in the plastic wrap was the Durham Ranch brand from Sierra Meats, whereas the marker mis-stated Devil's Gulch in Nicasio, a more desirable source.
I ordered a Muffuletta, the highest-priced sandwich on the menu at $14, for my lunch. Made with salami and ham (no mortadella), provolone, fresh mozzarella, olive salad, and mayo on Francese bread that's toasted, the sandwich was surprisingly skimpy for the price. I thought the mayo was an odd choice of condiment for what should be an olive oil-soaked sandwich, but figured I'd try it their way for a first look. The flavor profile lacked the overall intensity and the spice and acid of the original. The Francese, though quite different from the sesame seed Sicilian round loaf used in New Orleans, was the best part. I wouldn't order this again.
The Meatery does have some seating, if you wish to eat-in. But it's so close to the ocean, why not enjoy your purchase at the beach.
Though I did not like my sandwich, I'm happy that the area has a whole animal butcher offering some sustainably raised meats. My next visit will probably be to shop for something to cook for dinner.
1534 Fremont Blvd
Seaside, CA 93955
Open daily 11am to 7pm
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